Our family decided to hike Mt. Naeyeonsan on the mid-eastern coast of South Korea, famous for its 12 waterfalls, fall color, and Bogyeongsa, its one-thousand-year-old Buddhist temple. Our path from the parking lot to the mountain trails led through a tiny town of shops and restaurants. I was fascinated by sidewalks filled with women sitting on vinyl-covered tables, rolling out and then folding huge circles of dough. This elderly woman wielded a huge knife to thinly slice a length of folded dough into noodles, spitting on her hand occasionally to get a better grip on her knife. Ah, this crazy country, obsessed with cleanliness rituals for “things that touch the ground” and gloves (used for everything EXCEPT medical procedures and food-making).